Picking A Trapper As Pocket Partner

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Handier Than A Tactical Knife

When I began looking at historical blade styles, I found that the Trapper blade pattern is more of an evolved species, rather than a purpose-built knife that reflects the original use of frontier trappers. By the loose definition of the term, a trapper knife is a slip joint where more than one blade extends from the same end. Most trappers have a clip and a spey blade. The other end usually has a rounded end with enough of a swell to increase the grip surface. It does make sense to use a spey blade for harvesting game with a blunt tip. There spey tip prevents the user from puncturing things.

My Case Trapper came with Tru-Sharp Stainless steel blades. Most of us have speculated on the actual makeup of Tru-Sharp, but it is definitely high carbon and high chromium. I cut several things that could potentially stain steel, without problems. In cutting tests, the steel held up well, and one can hone a pretty good edge into these blades.

Case recommends an angle of 10 to 15 degrees when sharpening their pocket knives, which is about the angle for sharpening sushi knives. “Tactical knives” generally are at about 30 degrees. My Case Trapper was sharp out of the box. After some use, I dressed the edge. The Tru-Sharp steel forms a slight bead when sharpening. Running it across a little leather, which is another good reason to put your Case in a Case case, dresses it to razor sharp again.

I was using my Case Trapper for everything; opening boxes, slicing fruit, and cutting bullets out of ballistic gelatin. I have not delved into whittling, but Case is encouraging a resurgence in this pastime, and they even provide instructional pages. As it turns out, a pocketknife is handier than a tactical knife, and I can do things with increased precision.

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